Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
